Ginosa is a small town in the Italian region of Puglia. Puglia is located in the heel of Italy, along the southeastern coast, across the sea from Greece. The capital of the region is Bari, which is large port town where boats from Croatia, Montenegro, Greece, and Albania come in. Ginosa is an hour’s drive south of Bari, in what looks like the arch of the heel of Italy. It is a half an hour’s drive from the coast of Italy.
The main town lies in the Puglia plain on a rocky ledge with ravines that cut through the countryside. In antiquity, it was an important trading centre of Magna Grecia, but human habitation here dates back to the Bronze Age. It’s heritage is heavily influenced by the early Greeks, as well as others who arrived here to trade. Visitors will also see evidence of the early habitation in the rugged cave systems in and around town. Matera, famous for its Sassi caves, is just north of Ginosa. While visiting the seaside is a beloved Italian summer tradition, Ginosa is also famous for its reenactment of the Passion of Christ, which involves hundreds of actors over the Easter holiday. Here are a few hotels you might consider for your stay in Ginosa.
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Albergo Diffuso Il Casale
There are just four rooms at this Albergo Diffuso, or a hotel whose rooms are scattered across the property. It is an exceptional choice for travellers who prefer to infuse their stay with historical and cultural significance. The hotel was built into the tufa that is so prevalent in Ginosa, and two of the rooms are partially created within the caves themselves. All of the rooms offer impressive views out over the Gravina di Ginosa, or the canyon, and the nearby caves. They also each feature their own independent entrance. Breakfast was served daily in the room. It consisted of coffee and tea, fresh fruits, a savoury platter with local meats and cheese, and pastries and tarts.
The rooms are named after local produce: fig, pomegranate, mallow, and caper. They highlight the rural history of the region, while remaining comfortable and welcoming with hand-embroidered curtains, simple, whitewashed walls with handcrafted pottery, bas relief carvings, and local decor. The bathrooms all feature chromotherapy, which uses light to balance our energy. The various colours possess different frequencies of specific vibrations, which in turn correlate to different physical symptoms within the body.
I stayed in the Caper Room. It is not one of the rooms set into the cave, but does have a handcrafted tufa headboard above the beautiful, plush bed as well as a tufa ceiling. It had luxurious toiletries, LED lighting, wifi, a large television, and independent heating and cooling.
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Il Praedio della Reale Agriturismo
Il Praedio della Reale Agriturismo is a small country house, or masseria, set on a bit of land outside of Ginosa. For a century, the property has hosted settler families and today invites visitors to explore their land and enjoy perfectly cooked, rich, traditional Italian food. It is a simple stone farmhouse with just four bedrooms, which each look out to a different direction of the surrounding countryside. Two rooms have double beds, and two have two twin beds which can be made into a double. A small cot or rollaway bed can be added to any room for a child. Every room also has its own private bathroom.
Breakfast is served in the outdoor garden or in the ground floor breakfast room. There is also a more formal dining room for evening meals, which are open to outside guests as well. Everything that is served here comes either from the greenhouse and grounds or from nearby farms. The meat is sourced from local controlled farms and the fish is fresh every morning. On our last night, we had the opportunity to taste freshly made orecchiette.
Il Praedio della Reale is an ideal place to enjoy the rustic charm of Southern Italy. Guests will enjoy the fresh air and homegrown produce. We were delighted to see all the farm animals, including ponies, pigs, and the 2-day old baby goats!
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Masseria Amastuola Wines and Resort
The Masseria Amastuola Resort was one of my favourites! Marketed as a vineyard and resort combination, the masseria is a destination where guests can learn about the wine industry in southern Italy, relax among the vineyards, or simply enjoy a taste of Italy. It sits high above sea level on a plateau overlooking the coastal region. From the courtyard’s southern door, there are stunning views of the Gulf of Taranto.
The history of the masseria dates back to the 15th century, when it was owned by the Prince of Taranto, Giovanni Orsini. although it was in the 18th century that the property truly flourished. During the olive harvest months, settler families from around the region would arrive here to help with the harvest. They lived on the property and built a small church in which to worship. It still stands today, and guests are welcome to visit. The family that owns the property now works alongside local archaeological teams when artefacts are found on site. In the past, Greek amphorae have been found on the property.
Masseria Amastuola is surrounded by 170 hectares of olive trees and vineyards. It is truly the quintessential masseria! The entire property lies within a regional park and is surrounded by native vegetation like southern pines and wild herbs. Guests at the hotel have the option of exploring this land by horseback or bicycle. Other activities available include fishing, hiking, and spa services.
The main house consists of a manor house and farmers quarters, all in one large structure. There is also a former cheese making location, grape crusher, sheep pens, and more.
There are just nine guest rooms at this gorgeous hotel, although they are renovating nine more. The exterior may be ancient – over six hundred years old – but the interior is decidedly modern. Every room has been renovated to respect the architecture of the original building and the traditional style of the region. However, rooms at the Masseria Amastuola are minimalistic; they feature hand painted tiles against a dark wood background or simple white tiled backsplash. Each room has its own private bathroom and seating area with comfy chairs. Luxurious toiletries, wifi, and exceptional service are included in the room rate. Guests of the wine resort can enjoy breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea or in the restaurant.
The wine resort part of Masseria Amastuola highlights the wine made on the property. Primitivo is the varietal native to this region, and we certainly tasted our fair share of it! Amastuola produce eleven organic wine labels; wine tastings and tours are available even if you are not staying here. There is a wine bar, as well as a restaurant. We tasted a variety of appetisers (and wine!) in the wine bar before adjourning to the adjacent dining room for a six course lunch with wine pairings! Everything was fantastic and this is a place every wine lover must stop when they are in Puglia!
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Masseria Savoia
Masseria Savoia is a modern hotel that retains the classic history of the Puglia region. It is located close to the coast in Ginosa Marina, about fifteen minutes from the old town of Ginosa itself. In addition to beach access, the property has a gorgeous pool and courtyard to relax in. These add a touch of modern life to the otherwise rustic property. The architecture evokes the southern Mediterranean and northern African influences. Rooms are simple and comfortable, yet spacious. Every room has its own private bathroom, and some feature a seating area or terrace.
Breakfast is included in the room rate. It is served in the restaurant, which is located in the old stables. Dinner is also served here, and this is where we had our goodbye dinner. The dining room is in a large domed room, which calls to mind the traditional cave houses of the region. It is far from dark, though; the whitewashed walls and sconces lend more than enough light into the space.
After we toured the property, we met in the dining room for our meal. The chef prepared a tasting menu for us, which included a variety of dishes indigenous to this region. We began with a selection of appetisers for the table. These included marinated pumpkin with pomegranate seeds, a platter of cold meats, cheeses, jams, and vegetables, stuffed mushrooms, corn tarts, and squid. Our first course was pacchieri, or tube pasta, filled with scorfano and cherry tomatoes and topped with a pumpkin cream and Martina capocollo. The second course was a sea bream fillet with vegetable caponatina. We finished the meal off with a pineapple cannoli, filled with cream and served with fresh seasonal fruit. Everything was delicious!
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This region of Italy is far less visited than any other, but with exciting historical attractions, natural scenery, and a unique heritage, Puglia is well worth visiting. These four accommodation choices in Ginosa give visitors plenty of options for where to stay and dine, and are very central for those wishing to explore the region by car, foot, horseback, or bicycle. I recommend any of them!
I was on an educational trip with Puglia Promozione but as always opinions are my own.